The Underground World of Orvieto



Orvieto is said to be perched "halfway between heaven and earth", overlooking the Umbrian countryside.  While the Duomo's facade is the most beautiful I have seen in the way that the sun reflects off the thousands of tiny colourful tiles,  the reason my daughter and I ventured to Orvieto was to see the world below this quaint town.


 From the train station a funicular carries you up to the center of town.  While the train station was bombed during the second world war, much of the town was spared because of its distance from the train station.


 


Also spared was the the labyrinth of caves and the cisterns that were created by genius Etruscans some 3000 years ago, long before the term engineer was coined.  Orvieto's underground world is literally riddled with tunnels and caves dug into the soft volcanic rock below the town.  In looking at a town plan one sees that each house has its own cave.

Somehow my daughter talked me into exploring this underground world, despite that fact that I am claustrophobic, and I am afraid of poorly lit stairs since my fall in which I shattered my left ankle.  Luckily for her, sometimes my sense of adventure outweighs my fear and anxiety.  As we descended down stairs, which became less and less like stairs as we know them the deeper into the caves we went, role reversal took over with my daughter holding my hand talking me through my chest pains and the sense that my world was closing in.  After slow deep breathing down the "stairs" I was actually okay when I saw the vastness of the underground world.



If one did not do research one would not know about the hidden world below this quaint town - caves that were used to process olive oil in, cisterns that provided water to the town at one time and caves that were used as protective bomb shelters.  In many of the caves the walls were covered with dozens of small square niches.  As we are in Italy it seemed reasonable for me to conclude that these niches at one time held wine or olive oil bottles....WRONG.  Instead they acted as cozy houses for pigeons, which were a staple in the Etruscan diet many years ago.  The pigeons over the years got wise to that although these caves protected them from the hot sun and the rain, they were actually death chambers for them.  It seems the word has gotten out because although there are still openings for the pigeons to come and go, pigeons have not made their home in the caves for many years.




While I enjoyed our adventure into the roots of Orvieto, I was glad to emerge from the caves to the comparatively modern town where we enjoyed the sunset, a tasty plate of pasta and a glass of wine to calm my nerves.  It was an adventure well worth a few chest pains. 
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The Everlasting Magic of Florence......Enjoying an Anniversary Moment




As I run down from the hills above Florence in the early morning, I am always struck by how the sun what I can only describe as dances off the rooftops and faces of the architecturally magnificent buildings.  While I have run down from the hills thousands of times now, each and every time as I run back to what is now my home something just twinges in me as I look across the river.  This twinge rooted in gratitude for living in such a beautiful city.

A few weeks ago, as I ran back into Florence, I was left wondering what it would look and feel like if I got up very early, before the tourists took over the streets, and went to see these buildings while everyone was still tucked in their beds.  Buildings that those of us that live here avoid during the tourist season, because the hoards of people make it so unpleasant trying to dodge our way around them.  Instead, we take the lesser known side streets, and while they have their own charm, it can result in us going for weeks and even months without seeing what 10s of thousands of people come to Florence for, even if they can only steal a quick glance while their walking tour passes by.  I know people that live here that during July and August do everything they can to avoid the historical center as if it has the plague - for them it does of sorts.  But what if I did not avoid the center, and it were just me before these majestic buildings, and the warm early morning sun.

So, one morning I set my alarm and got up while much of the city was still asleep.  Without so much as a peep of sound on the streets, I laced up my shoes and went for my run.  As I ran across the city I was able to take routes that normally I cannot take because of the crowds.  Without fear of being cut off by a person with a raised umbrella guiding tourists like the pied-piper, I weaved my way through the streets until I was brought to a stand still, not by a person stopping to take a picture, but instead by the sheer awe of what was before me.

As I approached the Palazzo Vecchio, and rounded the corner to the Uffizi, I was reminded of the moment almost three years ago when I first arrived in Florence, turned this very corner, and tears came to my eyes because I was so overtaken by the emotion of that magical moment.  Three years later I was overtaken again by the magic of this city.  A sense of magic that I cannot put into words, but instead feel in my soul.

  

I don't know when I will turn that corner again, and without having to share it with anyone, have that moment of just standing with the sun beating down on this city that I love so much.  Certainly it will be after the tourist season is over.  I am thinking, once a year I should wake up early and make my way through the streets soaking in the magic of this city on my own, as it felt so good to selfishly for just a few moments have Florence all to myself.  I am glad that I experienced this anniversary moment of sorts.  It was worth pushing myself out the door in the early morning hours.  For me, as anniversaries are intended, it was a time taken to celebrate love - in this case my love of Florence.

    
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Sunday, November 3, 2013

Embracing the Italian Coffee Culture

For years I was addicted to Diet Coke.  While others woke up to their morning cup of coffee, I indulged in a few sips of Diet Coke, because I hate the taste of coffee.  I just could not understand why anyone would indulge in such an awful tasting substance.  But, I must admit I needed my caffeine fix by 11 am or my body started to scream for it.  I never guzzled Diet Coke.  Instead, I would just sip a bottle throughout the day when my energy level would start to drag.  Somehow over the years this nasty habit increased to two small bottles of Diet Coke a day.  That is until this past February when for some reason I decided to look up the effects of aspartine.  

When I Googled (decades ago no one would have predicted that to Google would become a verb) aspartine the first article that came up was headlined, "Aspartine is, by Far, the Most Dangerous Substance on the Market that is Added to Foods".  I then went on to read an article that outlined 92, yes 92, different health side effects associated with aspartine.  30 minutes of Googling was enough to convince me to never drink Diet Coke again.  

After three days of excruciating headaches detoxing from the aspartine, I realized I had a problem.  What was I going to do when my body started to drag in the day?  Suddenly I began to see the benefit of the Italian coffee culture.  There are a few things that Italians embrace with such passion that really it is part of their being; these things being their love of wine, delicious food and coffee.  (Okay Italian men would include beautiful women on their list) Until I gave up Diet Coke I never really understood the ritual of Italians stepping up to a coffee bar, ordering an espresso, it coming in really what is the equivalent of a shot glass with a handle, shooting back the espresso with the same power that one shoots back a shot of tequila, and then quickly going on their way to continue their day.  This ritual taking all of about 2 minutes, at the most.  For Italians there is no relaxing and reading the newspaper as you sip a large cup of steaming coffee.  There is no lingering to enjoy the taste and the smell of the coffee.  Instead, it is literally slam that stuff back and carry on.  I have Italian friends who will do this ritual up to 6 times a day.  

Now that I do not drink Diet Coke I frequently find myself doing as the Italians do and quickly popping into a coffee bar for a quick fix of caffeine.  The process taking such little time that really I don't have to taste what I am drinking.  I get all the benefits of the caffeine without subjecting myself to the gross taste of coffee.  I learned the hard way never to do this on an empty stomach as the caffeine is so strong that I had the shakes, felt impaired and then crashed 2 hours later having to lay down.  Clearly a rookie mistake.  Now I have the fine art of shooting back a shot of espresso down pat, although I also learned the hard way that if I do so after 2 pm I am up all night.  I do not know how Italians can do up to 6 shots a day.  Even after a late night meal they will order their cafe.  It leaves me wondering if their bodies are wired different in the way that they process their cultural treasure, coffee.  

Giving up aspartine has resulted in me embracing another part of Italian culture.  No I am not going to Google the side effects of caffeine.  I am sure there are plenty.  Instead, I am just going to let myself embrace this part of Italian culture 3 or 4 times a week.  I recognize that there is a limit to how healthy I can be, and surely enjoying this vice 3 or 4 times a week is better than 2 bottles of Diet Coke a day.  

I have come to learn in studying the art of cafe drinking that Italians often counteract the effects of a late night cafe by having what they call an "anti-cafe".  This being a shot of limoncello or grappa.  That part of the Italian culture I will never embrace.  I know my limit when it comes to vices.  I don't understand why one would consume caffeine to then drown the effects with alcohol.  This leads to another aspect of Italian culture that I have come to learn about - sometimes Italians do things that make absolutely no sense, but there is no point in questioning it as you will not get an answer that makes sense.  Sometimes it simply it what it is.     

   
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When the Bells Toll



Every morning I wake up to the sound of bells tolling.  Whether they are ringing in the Palazzo Vecchio, or from a church across the river, the sound always manages to travel across the city to my ears.  The sound of the bells tolling makes me feel safe.  They remind me of where I am, and how fortunate I am to be living in Florence.  They remind me of the life that I have here; free of worry of what chaos I will be faced with in the day, free of toxic misplaced anger and free to live life rather than fearing life.

The bells tolling also tuck me in each night.  The comforting sound feeling like a cozy blanket enwrapping me, making me feel that it is safe to sleep peacefully. 

While the bells tolling mark the hour of the day, for me they also mark freedom, peace, happiness and safety.       
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Sunday, February 10, 2013

At War With A Pigeon

     While I have escaped autumn leaves and winter snow living in Florence, living here does have its challenges.....the pigeons.  I am fortunate as they seem to for the most part avoid my terrace.  Perhaps the ferociousness of Libby keeps them away.  But as I have laid in bed the past several weeks I have been awakened by a pigeon who clearly has the desire to nest on the shutter outside my bedroom window.  With this comes the noise - What does a pigeon do "coo"?  While some may celebrate the noises of nature, at 5 am I have no desire to get in touch with nature.  My OCD brain also fixates on the feathers that come through my window.  As I vacuum them up off the floor all I can think about is how pigeons are the rats of the sky carry disease and microscopic bugs and bacteria.  I cannot even bring myself to pick the feathers up with my bare hand.  I know, I know crazy, but that is my brain.  My thoughts are not without merit as I know of a woman who had to pay an exterminator to get rid of some sort of mites from her apartment that she feels were brought in from the pigeons that live in her courtyard.  Looking at the bug bites that covered a friend's body that was in her apartment for only two hours cemented my decision to do whatever it took to get rid of the pigeon that was trying to set up house on my bedroom shutter.    
     I tried to scare of the pigeon by making noise whenever it was around.  That was a very short lived solution.  Pigeons are just so use to sharing the world with us humans that they aren't really that afraid of us.  Thinking about the diseases that come with this feathered foe, and envisioning Penelope (Emily's dog) leaping from the bed in an attempt to catch the pigeon and falling several floors to the ground, I decided that it was time to declare war and once and for all show this pigeon that my bedroom shutter was not going to be its new home.  The question was how.  Squirting water at it would not work as it has been raining for weeks.  This pigeon is already soaked with water.  Then it came to me; bathroom cleaner.  So armed with a bottle of bathroom cleaner I quietly skulked to my window being very careful not to be heard until the last minute when I pulled the trigger.  The shocked pigeon quickly flew away.  When it returned I was ready for action, with the bathroom cleaner on the bedside table.  This battle took days of me stalking the window at every free moment ready to quickly fire the bathroom cleaner before the pigeon had time to fly away.  At last it seems I have won the battle.  It has now been over a week and there has been no sign of the pigeon.  I feel so confident that I have won the battle with this pigeon that I have put the bathroom cleaner back in the cupboard.  The rain has stopped, the sun is shining, I am not being woken up by a pigeon at 5 am, I am no longer dealing with diseased plagued pigeon feathers, and I am not going to have to worry about Penelope leaping out my bedroom window.  Once again, all is well in my city.               
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Saturday, January 19, 2013

Oopsy.....A Day Adenture Goes Wrong

     

     When my daughter Emily was a little girl and she would make a mistake, or accidentally break something, she would look at me with the cutest smile and say "Oopsy".  I remembered this when we went for a day adventure together and what started off as wonderful went very wrong.
     With Emily coming to enjoy the holiday season with me I asked her what she really wanted to do this trip.  Of all the things she could do she wanted to go to a World War II museum.  Great, I thought, as I love history - particularly World War II history.  Yes, we are history geeks.  I found two museums; one on the outskirts of Bologna and the other in a little town in the countryside in Castel del Rio.  I called both museums confirming their opening hours.  I was not sure how we would get to the one museum in the countryside, but fortunately the museum Director told me that if we took the train to the closet town he would pick us up and take us to the museum.  We were all set for our "geek" day of adventure.
     The Museo Memoriale della Liberta is located on the very outskirts of Bologna.  We had to take a train from Florence and then a bus.  Once arriving at a particular bus stop the museum Director then talked us through how to walk to the museum through a Polish memorial cemetery and down a long lane lined with trees.  It was not until we arrived that we realized that the 88 year old Director and owner of the museum, Edo, actually opened up the museum just for us.  He said in the winter he does not get many visitors venturing his way.  In perfect English he told us how he fought as a patriot during World War II and what life was like for his family at the time.  Over the course of 60 years he has collected artifacts from the war ranging from uniforms to guns to vehicles, which he stores in an airplane hanger.  Almost every country that participated in the war is represented in his collection, including Canada.  One hanger housed historically accurate life size dioramas.  Emily and I stepped into a bomb shelter, and were able to get a sense of what life was like for those who had to live days in the protection of the shelter.  Emily and I were amazed that one man could amass such a collection, and exhibit it in such an educationally and emotionally rich way.  After experiencing the museum, and it truly is an experience, Edo showed us a film that he took on the day of liberation.  Through his eyes we are able to see the day that freedom returned to Bologna, and the destruction that was left in the aftermath of the war.  Edo then offered to drive us to a nearby train station that would take us to the town near the next museum that we wanted to go to.  Emily and I looked at each other, surprised by his kindness and willingness to go out of his way.  First Edo opened up the museum just for us, and then he drove us to the train station

     I had talked earlier to the Director of the Museo della Guerra when we first arrived in Bologna.  As he was occupied during the day he suggested that we meet him at 6:30 pm at the train station, then he would drive us to the museum and then take us back to the train station.  There was no other way to get to the museum as no buses went to the very small town of Castel del Rio, so to say that I was grateful for his kindness was an understatement.  Again, I could not believe that someone would go so much out of their way.  I jokingly said to Emily that it was all too good to be true.  I think that was the moment when I jinxed us.  
     When Alberto picked us up we learned that he was the Mayor of Castel del Rio.  I assumed he would be driving us 10-15 minutes to the museum, but it was closer to 45 minutes.  Apologizing for the heat not being on in the museum, which is located in a medieval castle, Alberto gave us a private tour of the museum sharing with us the history of the Gothic line, which ran through the nearby mountains.  I tried to give him money for his time and gas, but he would not have it.  He told me that in the winter he is delighted to have visitors as he was lucky to see 6 or 7 in the winter months.  We were his first Canadians, and soon to be his most unforgettable Canadians he would meet.  Just like the other museum, the collection from incredible.  Between the two museums our "history geekness" was satisfied.
     Then Alberto checked the train times for our return back to Florence.  I assumed when he suggested a time for us to go to the museum that as a "local" he was aware of the train times between Bologna and Florence.  I also assumed that given that Bologna is a big city there would be regular trains running until 11 or 12 pm.  It did not even cross my mind that we may have difficulty getting home.  In the typical Italian way of not really sweating a problem, Alberto broke the news to me that there was no way we would make the last train back to Florence - 9:15 pm.  We were stranded an hour away from Florence in the middle of the countryside, and the dogs were at home.  Alberto suggested that we go get a glass of wine to try and figure out a plan.  I explained that we had to get home to the dogs.  We entered a small town bar full of Italian men who had clearly been there a while enjoying both wine and the soccer game.  Emily whispered in my ear, "Do not leave me here alone for a minute".  Alberto reassured us that he would stay with us until we found a way home.  He called a driver that he knew to see if he would drive us to Florence, but because of the hour, close to 10pm by now, he did not want to.  I then called friends in Florence to put on their thinking caps for a way for us to get home.  One friend was at a function that he could not leave for two hours, but said he would then come for us if we were still stranded.  As I frantically placed calls back and forth with friends my cell phone began to die.  I scrambled to write down telephone numbers before it died as Alberto offered to let me use his phone if mine shut off, which it did.  And he bought me another glass of wine, saying that I looked like I needed it.  I didn't know whether to cry, throw up or laugh at Emily and I getting stranded on our museum adventure.  Finally a friend was able to arrange a driver to come get us and take us back to Florence.  Safely on our way home Emily spoke up from the backseat, "At least the museums were really interesting".  We can chuckle about it now, although at the time positive thinking was not something that I was embracing. 
     250 euro later, and two hours of driving through such thick fog that you could not see past the front of the car (it should have only been an hour drive), we made it back home to the dogs at 1 am.  We were so tired and hungry.  Walking home the day was put into perspective though when we passed a homeless man sleeping on the street.  Suddenly our day did not look so bad.  It was Emily who suggested that we heat him up some homemade soup that I had in the fridge and take it to him to warm him up on the cold winter night.  His eyes lit up with our kindness.  Yes this day was a big "oopsy" day, but it started with two men going out of their way to be kind to us, and in the end it came full circle with us being kind to a homeless man.  Emily and I cuddled in bed chuckling about our adventure gone wrong, but feeling good that we were able to return kindness with kindness.              
                  
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Singing the Praises Of The Bidet



     I never understood why bidets are so popular here in Italy.  In a city where space is such a precious commodity I always thought a bidet was nothing but wasted space.  Most bathrooms are so small that it is unheard of to have both a bathtub and a shower stall, yet there is always a bidet.  I have always thought of the bidet as a useless piece of plumbing that if removed would provide space for a storage cabinet; storage space being in such shortage in Italian apartments that it is seen as almost luxurious.  No hoarding happening here in Florence as you are constantly considering what you can purge to make room for something new.  For those of you that don't know what a bidet is, it is a low-mounted plumbing fixture, closing resembling a toilet, "intended for washing the genitalia, inner buttocks, and anus".  Really, can't a shower once a day take care of anything that a bidet is taking care of?   How gross can it be down there that you need a special plumbing fixture to take care of it?
     Then it came to me one day.  I had an epiphany.  During the spring and summer months when you wear sandals the dirt on the streets is an unavoidable hazard of city life.  At the end of the day your feet are literally caked in a layer of black, that trust me you do not want to take into your bed.  Often it is so bad that you wash your feet more than once in the day.  I scrubbed my feet in the tub, and then had to clean the tub with cleanser to get rid of the black grime.  One day as I walked into the bathroom to clean my feet before bed and it hit me, the bidet is a small tub of sorts, so why not use it to clean my feet and not get the big tub dirty.   Late at night cleaning a tub is the last thing you want to do.  I know for someone you is "gifted", skipped a grade in high school and has a Masters degree, I can be a little slow on the uptake sometimes.  I am embarrassed to say how long it took me to clue into the actual usefulness of the bidet.  I will admit to it being more than one season.  Now, I am singing the praises of the invention of the bidet.  While I have never used my bidet to clean my ass, it does make scrubbing the city grime from my feet much easier.        


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